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Jack Martin

Styling Professional based in the West Coast who excels at platinum tones. He works with Hollywood stars and Andie MacDowell.

Which budget-friendly product is a must-have?

I highly recommend a gentle drying cloth, or even a gentle tee to dry your hair. Many are unaware how much damage a regular bath towel can do, especially to grey or color-processed hair. This minor adjustment can really lessen brittleness and splitting. Another affordable staple is a broad-toothed comb, to use in the shower. It protects the hair while smoothing out tangles and helps preserve the strength of the individual hairs, particularly post-bleaching.

Which investment truly pays off?

A professional-grade heat styling tool – ceramic or tourmaline, with smart temperature control. Lightened strands can yellow or burn easily without the right iron.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Self-applied color lifting. Social media makes it look easy, but the actual fact is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. I’ve seen people melt their hair, break it off or end up with bands of colour that are extremely difficult to fix. It's best to steer clear of chemical straightening processes on bleached or silver hair. Such treatments are often overly harsh for weakened hair and can cause chronic issues or color changes.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

Clients selecting inappropriate items for their hair type or colour. A number of people misuse colour-correcting purple shampoo until their silver or blond hair looks flat and dull. Some depend excessively on protein-rich treatments and end up with stiff, brittle hair. Another significant problem is heat styling without protection. If you’re using hot tools or dryers without a heat protectant, – especially on pre-lightened hair – you’re going to see discoloration, dehydration and damage.

What would you suggest for thinning hair?

Thinning requires a comprehensive strategy. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. My advice includes scalp serums with caffeine or peptides to boost blood flow and support follicle health. Using a scalp detox shampoo weekly helps clear out buildup and allows treatments to work more effectively. Oral aids like specialized formulas have also shown positive outcomes. They enhance overall health for hair benefits by correcting endocrine issues, tension and lack of vital nutrients.

For those seeking higher-level solutions, PRP therapy – where your own platelet-rich plasma is injected into the scalp – can be effective. However, I consistently recommend seeing a dermatologist or trichologist first. Thinning can be linked to medical conditions, and it’s important to determine the origin rather than chasing surface-level fixes.

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A Trichology Expert

Trichologist and head of a renowned clinic clinics and product ranges for hair loss.

How often do you get your hair cut and coloured?

My trims are every couple of months, but will remove split ends personally fortnightly to maintain tip integrity, and have lightening sessions every eight weeks.

Which low-cost item is a game-changer?

Hair-thickening particles are truly impressive if you have thinning spots. They attach using static to your strands, and it comes in a range of colors, making it virtually undetectable. I personally applied it after childbirth when I had a lot of hair fall – and also now while experiencing some significant shedding after having awful flu a few months ago. Because locks are secondary, it’s the earliest indicator of health issues when your intake is insufficient, so I would also recommend a well-rounded, nutrient-rich diet.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

In cases of hereditary hair loss in females, I’d say doctor-recommended solutions. For excessive daily hair shedding, AKA telogen effluvium (TE), buying an over-the-counter product is fine, but for FPHL you really do need clinical interventions to see the best results. I believe minoxidil mixed with supporting compounds – such as hormones, anti-androgens and/or anti-inflammatories – works best.

Which popular remedy is ineffective?

Using rosemary essential oil for thinning. It's ineffective. The whole thing stems from one small study done in 2015 that compared the effects of a mild minoxidil solution versus rosemary extract. A 2% strength minoxidil isn’t enough to do much for genetic balding in men, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Also, high-dose biotin. Few individuals have biotin insufficiency, so using it may not benefit your strands, and it can alter thyroid level measurements.

Which error is most frequent?

Personally, I prefer "scalp cleansing" over "hair washing" – because the main goal of cleansing is to remove buildup, flakes, perspiration and dirt. I see people avoiding shampooing as they think it’s damaging to their locks, when in fact the reverse is correct – especially if you have dandruff, which is worsened by the presence of excess oils. When sebum remains on the skin, they deteriorate and lead to inflammation.

Regrettably, follicular health and strand desires can differ, so it’s a careful compromise. But as long as you are gentle when you shampoo and handle wet hair with care, it won’t be damaging to your strands.

Which options help with shedding?

For FPHL, your core treatment should be minoxidil. Scientific support is substantial and tends to be most effective combined with additional ingredients. If you're interested in complementary therapies, or you choose to avoid it or cannot tolerate it, you could try collagen induction therapy (with a specialist), and perhaps PRP or low-level laser therapy.

For TE, you need to do some detective work. Excessive daily shedding occurs in response to an internal factor. Occasionally, the reason is temporary – such as flu, Covid or a period of intense stress – and it will improve spontaneously. Alternatively, endocrine issues or nutrient shortages may be the cause – the most common being ferritin (stored iron), vitamin B12 and vitamin D deficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus